Discount Car Remote Central Lock Locking Keyless Entry System with Remote Controllers

Product Description

Flashing alert.
LED indicator.
Suitable for all types of vehicles.
Specifications:
Voltage: +12V ± 2V(DC)
Static current: ≤8mA
Max current: 15A
Direction output: ≤15A
Central lock output: ≤15A
Truck output: ≤-500mA
Frequency: 315MHz
Item size: 8.5 * 7 * 2cm
Net weight: 232g
Package including:
1 * Keyless Entry System
2 * Remote Controllers
1 * Wire
1 * User Manual

Product Details

• Brand: Unknown
• Model: OEM

Features

• Remotely lock and unlock your car.
• Remote car location.
• Remotely release the boot/trunk.
• Learning code remote controls.
• Electric lock and air lock.

Customer Reviews

Most helpful customer reviews

23 of 25 people found the following review helpful.
Couldn't build it for less
By GeneralPrimevil
Pros:
- Inexpensive (under $20 shipped)
- Truly universal
- Key fobs are better than any OE remotes I've worked with (EE at tier 1 OEM automotive supplier)
- 100+ft range, line-of-sight
- Module is very small - installed in the door panel of my 2000 Crown Victoria Police Interceptor.

Cons:
- Wiring harness has thick-insulated 22 gauge fine stranded wires. Expected 18 gauge given current rating (15A)
- Range is less than 300ft (does not matter for my application)
- Four button remote but only two buttons have functions
- Board traces are not rated for the current of the included fuse
- Difficult to install without an automotive wiring background (not "plug 'n play" for most applications)

Operation:
This RKE module uses the standard 315mHz frequency (like all North American automotive remote keyless entry systems). The module has three relays and a low-active output, along with power, ground, and confirmation flash connections. The two SPDT relays allow wiring to high active, low active, and reverse-polarity door lock actuators. The single SPST relay allows for confirmation flash of lights (or horn, or beeper), one pulse for lock, two pulses for unlock. Module only has provision for all doors lock or all doors unlock, no "single click drivers, double click all" like OEM units. The module has a few convenient features, such as holding the lock button for 25 seconds of flashing lights (to help find the vehicle in a crowded parking lot, for instance) and holding the unlock button for two seconds to ground the trunk release pin (to activate a trunk popper or door poppers).

Key fobs:
The remotes are built very well, some kind of metal chassis with plastic panels and buttons, along with a sliding plastic button cover. The keyring loop is very beefy and thick - I do not expect these to break. They have a blue LED button press confirmation light. I have no idea what battery life might be, but they appear easy to open using a small (#0) Phillips head screwdriver to remove the backside case screws. These remotes are solid!

Other notes:
The black tracer leads are for the "unlock" relay while the untraced leads are for the "lock" relay using the remote ISO symbols for naming.

I installed a small relay (surface mount micro-SPDT) to invert the trunk release signal pin since my application required a high-active signal to the LCM (BCM in most other cars). I did this by cutting the pin at the 90-degree bend and soldering the 'coil' ground to the board (in place of the pin), 'NO' to the pin on the header connector, and powering the coil via the 5V regulator (TO-92 case 5V 500mA regulator on the board between the two large electrolytic caps) using the large solder joint powering the receiver surfboard. The common pins of the relay received power from the +12V input pin. Ground is available through most of the backside copper plane and the ground pin itself.

During installation, I had the NO and common pins on the relays mixed for my vehicle harness, resulting in blowing out the traces on the board to the common pins on the relay. The fuse did not blow in this adventure, but repairing the board was simple. I am disappointed the fuse did not protect the board, however. I would recommend 5A for testing purposes (and most door locks draw less than 5A anyway).

In all, I recommend this product to anyone looking to install RKE in their aging vehicle.

11 of 11 people found the following review helpful.
Really, Really Cool!
By kelsey m
Took about a week to ship. Not bad at all. As people before me ave said: it is difficult to install. The instruction book has a wiring diagram with 4-5 different examples of how your cat MAY be wired. If you don't understand wiring diagrams, and are not willing to experiment, don't use this product. I have a '95 Jeep Grand Cherokee. All I did was remove the door cover on the driver's side. I found the constant positive and patched 3 wires into it. The connected to corresponding wires to the lock and unlock wires. I had it installed in 15 minutes. The more I played with it, the cooler it got. I can use the auxiliary buttons to turn on my fog lights and honk my horn! There are extra wires corresponding to the other 2 buttons. You can connect them to anything electronic in/on your car. This is an amazing product for the money!

6 of 6 people found the following review helpful.
Worked fine on my 2000 Honda Civic EX
By B. DeLuca
Some might wonder why I'm installing this in a Civic EX since they come with a keyless entry. Well the previous owner managed to jack up the keyless entry in a mangled stereo install and the OEM components to replace it are way too expensive to put back in. So, I decided to give this a try and it worked just fine. For those wondering on the wiring I did the following using the wiring under the driver side kick panel (KES is the wires on the Keyless entry system):

KES - White ->Green/White (Door Lock)
KES - White/Black -> Green/Orange (Door Unlock)
KES - Yellow -> Black (Body Ground)
KES - Yellow/Black -> Black (Body Ground)
KES - Black -> Black (Body Ground)
KES - Red -> White (Constant +12V)
KES - Brown -> Red/Black (Parking Lights)
KES - Red/Black -> (not used)
KES - Orange -> (not used)
KES - Orange/Black -> (not used)

At this price it is hard to go wrong. One thing I am going to do is switch out the 15 amp fuse for a 5 amp since the board and wires likely cannot handle that amperage and 5 amps should be sufficient for operation.

See all 73 customer reviews...